Buying a set of regulators can be an exciting, yet daunting prospect for any diver, given the huge range available. This straight-forward guide aims to give you a few pointers to consider when looking for a regulator. At the end, you’ll find a shortlist of regulators which are currently considered to be the best on the market.
The Basics
A standard regulator set up consists of 2 main parts. The 1st stage attaches to the tank itself, and is available in either A-clamp or DIN fittings. DIN fittings are strongly recommended as they are far more secure and safer than an A-clamp fitting (see comparison later in guide.) Attached to the 1st stage is the 2nd stage, also known as the main demand valve (DV), from which you breathe. You should also have a secondary DV for your buddy to breathe from in an out-of-gas situation, which is commonly referred to as an Octopus.
A contents gauge is essential, so that you’ll know how much air you have remaining. Some manufacturers also group a depth gauge, and even a compass, to the contents gauge to make a handy console.
In order to inflate your BCD, a direct feed hose (DF) is required. If you dive in a drysuit, you’ll need a second DF hose.
Your 1st stage will have a number of ports on it to attach each of these various items. These ports fall into 2 categories; high pressure and low pressure. Knowing which type of port each item requires enables you to work out how many ports your 1st stage requires.
- DV – Low pressure
- Octopus – Low pressure
- DF – Low Pressure
- Contents gauge – High Pressure
For a standard regulator set up of a DV, Octopus, DF and contents gauge, you would require a 1st stage to have a minimum of 3 low pressure ports and 1 high pressure port. If diving with a drysuit, or thinking about buying one at a later date, it will be necessary to have 4 low pressure ports and 1 high pressure port.
Considerations
There are number of things that you should think about when determining your choice of regulator:
THE TYPE OF DIVING YOU DO
If you never dive below 30m, and have no intention of ever going deeper than that, then a high performance regulator is not value for money, as you only begin to notice the increased performance from these 1st stages at greater depths.
Wreck diving and twin-set diving can also impact on your choice of regulator. Both kinds of diving require very neat hose configurations where the choice of which 1st stage you purchase can make a big difference. (Contact Neil Brock for details about his twin set workshop if this interests you.)
THE FREQUENCY OF YOUR DIVING
Some regulators on the market today (mainly Poseidon’s) require tuning and adjusting to prevent free-flows and improve the ease of breathing if they are not used frequently (say once every 1 – 2 months). This can lead to increased maintenance costs over time or disappointment when you turn up to a dive site and your regs don’t function properly.
THE TEMPERATURE OF THE WATER YOU DIVE IN
Many regulators today are either designed for use in cold water (<10?C), or can be upgraded with a kit to be used in cold water. Ask yourself if this is worth the extra cost if you only ever dive abroad in nice warm water or only during the summer months in the UK.
FREQUENT TRAVELLERS
Some regulator manufacturers use titanium, a lightweight metal, to produce regulators. These are popular with divers who fly frequently, as it cuts down on check-in weight.
ASK, BEG, BORROW
Don’t be afraid to ask people who own their own regs for their advice and opinions. We’ve all been in this situation before and are more than glad to help – after all, that’s what belonging to a club is all about!
It’s always a good idea, if the opportunity presents itself, to beg or borrow a set you’re interested in from someone else to see if you like them, and to see if they are suitable for you. Bear in mind that what works for one person may not work for you as well. Be warned though, if you borrow someone else’s kit you will be expected to treat it with greater reverence than the crown jewels!
YOUR LOCAL DIVE SHOP
Always take advantage of the wealth of knowledge and experience that is available at your local dive shop. At the end of the day, the people there are selling you life support equipment, and therefore want to make sure that you end up choosing something that is tailored to you and is going to ensure that your diving is safe and enjoyable. Some may even give you an opportunity to try out a set before you buy so you can ensure it is right for you. Oh, and there’s always a pot of coffee on the go!
Features to Consider
With so many regulators and manufacturers on the market at present, they all utilise their own buzzwords and marketing strategies to make them stand out, so here are few technical things to consider.
A-CLAMP OR DIN?
This is the method by which your 1st stage will attach to your tank, so what are the primary differences between the two?
| A-Clamp | Din |
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DIAPHRAGM OR PISTON 1ST STAGE?
The simplest type and the one that has been around the longest is the piston regulator. This type of 1st stage has fewer moving parts and has simpler maintenance requirements. It also has a higher air flow than other types of 1st stage, but this comes at a price. Piston first stages are not as reliable in colder water than diaphragm 1st stages, but a lot of manufacturers have incorporated various devices and technologies to help prevent regulator malfunction in these conditions. (e.g. Scubapro Mk2, Mk25)
The other type of 1st stage is a diaphragm, which is traditionally better for cold water. These have more moving parts and can require a bit more maintenance due to their complex designs. Some diaphragm first stages also incorporate what is known as “environmental sealing” (check out the club Apeks regs). This uses a second diaphragm on the first stage to give extra protection against very cold water and under ice diving conditions. (e.g. Apeks, ….)
Given the continuing advancements in the design and technology utilised in the manufacture of 1st stages, there is now very little to differentiate between the performances of a piston 1st stage versus a diaphragm 1st stage.
BALANCED OR UNBALANCED 1ST STAGE?
Very simply, always buy a balanced 1st stage!! A balanced 1st stage will always deliver the same flow of air no matter what the pressure in your cylinder, while an unbalanced stage will allow less air to flow as the pressure in your tank drops, meaning more work for you!
BREATHING RESISTANCE KNOBS
These controls enable you to adjust your breathing effort based on diving conditions like depth or current. As you dial in on the knob, pressure is put on the second-stage spring, which pushes on the seat, which increases breathing effort. This can be a good thing when passing through a surf line or swimming into a strong current as your purge button is not getting pushed in. Dial out on the knob and spring and seat pressure are eased, making it easier to generate airflow. This can reduce breathing effort when descending to greater depths.
PRE-DIVE SWITCHES
These controls change the angle of a vane inside the second stage casing. When turned to the “closed” or “minus” position, the vane adjusts to deflect airflow inside the casing, reducing a reg’s sensitivity to free-flow while on the surface. Once your under water, turn the switch to the “open” or “plus” position, the vane rotates and you have maximum airflow with which to enjoy your dive.
Manufacturers
You should now be very informed about what you should think about when looking for a reg. To make the task even easier for you here’s a lovely list of manufacturers and their regulators that are worth considering!
NB Bear in mind that octopuses are not included as most packages are 1st and 2nd stage only for regulators. However the primary thing to think about with an octopus is that it will be reliable, and as it may be used for real under stressful conditions it should be of the same or better quality as your main DV. Also never mix and match a 1st stage and 2nd stage or octopus from different manufacturers!
SCUBAPRO
- MK25 1st stage with S600 2nd stage
- MK25 1st stage with S555 2nd stage
- MK19 1st stage with S600 2nd stage
- MK19 1st stage with R395 2nd stage
- MK11 1st stage with R395 2nd stage
- MK2 1st stage with R395 2nd stage
APEKS
- XTX 40
- XTX 100
- XTX 200
- N.B. Although Apeks themselves have stopped manufacturing the previous incarnations of these regulators (the TX and ATX range), they are still good regulators and are still supported in terms of servicing. The majority of club kit uses ATX 40 regulators.
POSEIDON
- Jetstrean
- Cyklon
- N.B. These will require tuning by a qualified technician often if you do not use them frequently
AQUALUNG
- Legend
- Kronos
MARES
- Proton (Comes in a fetching blue SheDive version as well)
- Abyss
ATOMIC
- B2
- T2 (Titanium regulator)
CRESSI-SUB
- Ellipse
OCEANIC
- Alpha 8 CDX 5
- Delta 4 DX4
- Delta 4 FDX10
- EOS FDX-10
Conclusions
Hopefully this guide has given you some things to consider before going out and purchasing a set of regulators. Please remember that there is no substitute for asking other people about their experiences and recommendations!!
Happy Diving!